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The Hawaiian Plantation House

Last year I spent 10 days in Japan and had 30 of the finest meals of my life. The Japanese are almost reverential about food, an attitude I share. They say special dishes have the presence of umami. It means "deliciousness."

Every week I'm going to select one dish that is the essence of umami. An ethnic treat. We've already talked about Peruvian chicken, Cubano sandwiches and Mediterranean pizza. Today I want to tell you about salmon katzu, a specialty of The Hawaiian Plantation House in Henderson.

Do you think sushi rolls look interesting but you weren't going to go near 'em because the fish is raw? Salmon katzu solves your problem. The salmon is cooked, so this tasty concoction appeals to everybody.

You need a blueprint to make this architectural wonder. The kitchen takes a salmon fillet, then dabs it with lots of lump crabmeat. All the goodies are rolled in seaweed, then flash fried to make the exterior crispy. The finishing touch: a roll in pink panko - that's Japanese breadcrumbs.

The chef - he's Craig Camole from the Ritz Carlton on Maui -- slices slivers from this giant jellyroll and piles them over luau rice - a mixture of white and wild seeped in a savory soy sauce marinade.

The dish comes with an unusual Hawaiian salad. Waimea field greens, three types of sprouts and a healthy dollop of caviar are painted with a ginger soy sauce dressing. Catch the salad bowl: it's edible. It's a supersized egg roll wrapper.

Be sure you have a cup of Hawaiian coffee. A local importer brings the green coffee beans to Las Vegas and then roasts them here to ensure their freshness. The coffee cups at the Hawaiian Plantation hold as much fluid as a Big Gulp.

The Hawaiian Plantation House is located oat 10940 South Eastern Avenue on the Henderson restaurant row in the Sunridge Village Plaza. The phone is 702.990.6348.

Orange Line

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